January 19, 2003
After breakfast with Hernan, we headed to Metro Park in his bright red, specially equipped Land Rover. Metro Park, officially known as The Parque Natural Metropolitano, has been protected since 1985. The park has 666 acres and is the only natural undisturbed park in Latin America adjacent to a capital city and has remained an undisturbed jungle for over 80 years. Our first day of birding brought us a total of 85 different bird species. I even had great looks at the Crimson-crested Woodpecker that I had missed the year before.

Red-throated Caracara

January 20-21, 2003
Today took us to Pipeline Road, a very famous Panama birding area. The pipeline was built by the United States after World War II. The road services an unused oil pipeline meant to provide an alternative means of getting oil if the canal became disabled. The dirt road is seventeen miles long and crosses prime tropical lowland forest that allow access into excellent birding areas. We covered twelve miles of the road in two days. Hernan called in a Rufous Mourner from deep within the jungle. We talked with a leading authority on Kinkajous from the Smithsonian who was checking his traps on Pipeline Road. He had just caught a female that he had tagged ten years earlier. She was enjoying bananas while being observed.

January 22, 2003
We flew one hour to LaPalma where we were joined for the day by Pat and Brownell, a couple from Maryland. We had left our extra luggage at Ancon's office and were now carrying only 25 pounds of luggage and our day packs. All packs plus food and supplies were loaded into boats at La Palma. We would travel for many hours by boat to reach our destination of Patino. We stopped along the way to visit two recently excavated forts where we were rewarded with a great look at a Tayra (a large muscular weasel) as he scurried along the walls of the fort. Bill got some great pictures. We scrambled back in the boat and continued our journey to Patino. There is an 18 foot tide at Patino and you guessed right, the tide was out when we arrived. We had to get out and carry what we could to shore. The staff came to carry the heavy bags and food while a large tractor pulling a trailer met us to carry everything including us up to Punta Patino Field Station. The view from the station was breathtaking. Our cottages were brightly painted in tropical colors. Ours was purple with beautiful pink flowers surrounding it. We spent the rest of the day birding the many trails of the Station. We had great looks at a Laughing Falcon. Unfortunately we had to turn back when we were informed there were Africanized Bees ahead. We spent the rest of the evening searching for wildlife. We saw a family of Wild Short-earred Dogs and a Giant Frog bigger than a softball. Pat and Brownell were not birders but loved nature so they enjoyed the scenery from the patio.

January 23, 2003
We traveled to the Embera Indian village of Mogue. Using rivers as roads is the norm in the jungle because it is much easier and faster than hiking in the jungle—as we were soon to learn the hard way. We were excited because we would spend the night in the village and climb 2 3/4 miles to the site of a Harpy Eagle nest.

Unloading at Mogue

This was our first of many hikes. All trails in Panama go straight up.

Crossing on the start of the trail to the
Harpy Eagle's nest

I was very glad we didn't have to return in the dark as I had had enough trouble going up the trail in the daylight. All the Embera homes are built 12' off the ground. Our tents were on a platform 12' in the air. A log with steps cut into it was the way up. Thank heavens no one walked in their sleep. The Emberas showed us their crafts. They make beautiful baskets, root carvings and jewelry. The chief sang and played the flute. The young girls did tribal dances. My favorite was the dance of the Hummingbird. The village is traditional with the older men wearing their hair in a dutchboy cut. Their bodies are painted with a black vegetable dye much like a tattoo. Hernan had his body painted as a jaguar. The dye darkens and lasts about a week. The men wear brightly colored loin cloths and the women go topless and wear colorful wrap skirts. Western clothes seem to be worn by younger children. That evening we ate by candle light.

We stopped along the way to buy live chickens and fresh fruit for juice. The chickens were tied on the horses. Our passports were checked again along the way. We were sure happy to see the buildings of our camp site come into view. Coconuts were opened with machetes and our cook quickly squeezed fresh Braho for us. The Braho fruit is the size of a tangerine and tastes like a cross between a tangerine and lemon. The chickens were tied to roots to await their fate.  Tents were set up and we were given a choice of a cool swim in the river or a cold shower. The shower water was cold and came from the river. We had showers every day but one on our trek. They were all cold. We hung our wash, swam, birded every minute, ate huge meals and never gained a pound.

Hernan told us about a great 30' waterfall that we should see not far away. An easy walk. Why did I believe him? Much later wading waist deep, walking on sharp rocks with the aid of Feidelino the falls came into view. The brave members in the group climbed the falls and slid down. We have pictures to prove who did it
(bravo Bill).

We reached Cana Lodge at about 2 PM. Cool, clear air greeted us as we stepped out of the plane. The 80s felt wonderful. We were at 1600 feet above sea level. A hundred years ago Cana was a gold mining town of 10,000 people. Now a rough lodge, dining building, two staff houses and housing for birders with about five staff members live there. A building on the airstrip houses Military police to protect the landing field. The staff met us with wheelbarrows to take our gear to our rooms. We had electric lights from dark till 8:30 PM, then candles. The stars were brilliant with no lights for a hundred miles. Hernan put Saturn in the Scope for us. The rings look flat this time of year. It was an awesome experience.

Mariposa Moth

The birds were fantastic here. Sitting on the patio we could watch four different Macaw species: Great Green, Chestnut-Fronted, Blue-and-yellow and Red-and-green. Blue-headed Parrots, Tanagers, and other birds were seen also. The trails around the grounds never stopped producing new and exciting birds. One great surprise was a Green Ibis on a jungle trail in the mountains. Machinery Trail holds birds plus relics of the old mining days. Steam engines, rail tracks and flatbeds have been hidden in the jungle for years. Live dynamite is still in the 1905 tunnel. Every trail led to different birds or more discoveries. The Seleganti Trail leading to the river produced Jaguar, Ocelot and Mergay tracks. At the river, I had two life birds—the Connecticut and Mourning Warblers. We met an old friend, the Northern Waterthrush. We were always accompanied by a member of the Military Police. He happened to be a very good bird spotter. On one of our trail walks Peggy spotted a Spectaled Owl. Bill never left his room or tent without his cameras. He also got some great owl shots.

Spectacled Owl

January 31, 2003
The next morning we hiked up for two more hours until we reached 5550 feet. We were now in a cloud without a view. During the night we heard a South American Pygmy Owl. Hernan called it in but at 5" we couldn't find it. We walked back to the Cloud Forest Camp, ate lunch and prepared to descend the mountain. It took us three hours to return. We all made it back despite blisters, aching knees and hundreds of bug bites.

Pirre Mountain Station

February 2, 2003
Our last two days in Panama were mild in comparison to days before but just as rewarding. Sundays in Panama are a day to head to the country and find a swimming spot on your favorite river or lake. We joined the traffic and headed out of town on the Pan American Highway for Logo Bayon. We traveled on the lake in a 40 foot canoe hollowed from a log, crossing the lake to a Cuna village. The Cunas are very attractive and shy people. They are known for their beautiful Molas—a combination of appliqué, topped with embroidery made to decorate their blouses. The Cuna girls marry at about 14 years of age. The girls receive an elementary education in the village where teachers come in from Panama City. The boys, however, receive a high school education. After our visit at the village we boated to Clear River to swim and picnic.

February 3, 2003
Our last day was spent on a Jungle boat tour of the islands in Gatun Lake. The large ships using the Canal must pass through the lake on their way to the Gatun Locks and the Caribbean Sea. We searched the islands for monkeys, sloths and birds. Snail Kites were every where. Our last night and farewell dinner was at the plush Gamboa Lodge. The resort cost over $30 million dollars to develop. We said our farewells to Hernan. He has offered to be our guide again. He has a long list of places he thinks we should visit. Ancon and its staff couldn't have treated us better. They were constantly thinking of our safety and we never felt afraid during our visit.

White-faced Capucin