PART ONE

On July 11, 2001, my wife, Merrill, and I took off from Albany Airport at 7:30 AM for a brief stay in the San Francisco Bay Area and then we planned to fly on to Maui for a cruise around the Hawaiian Islands. Upon our arrival at San Francisco Airport later that morning we rented a vehicle for our three days in the area. First, we settled our belongings at our hotel in San Mateo, south of the airport and on the bayside of the San Francisco Peninsula. Then we took off for the afternoon to explore over on the Pacific coast side of the Peninsula. We traversed the coastal ranges by traveling over the twisting and winding Route 92 to the delightful community of Half Moon Bay. On the way, we passed over the Crystal Springs Reservoirs that provide water for San Francisco. Here we scanned the waters and the shoreline for bird life as we passed by on the two-lane road, but saw nothing. Once over on the Pacific side of the peninsula, we drove north as far as Montara Beach State Park that had a pleasant, quiet beach surrounded by cliffs. After a while of enjoying the pleasing scene, we were hungry. Looking for a place to eat, we worked our way back south stopping along the way for views from the heights where Moss Beach Distillery sits. We saw distant flocks of gulls flying and down on the rocky shore were cormorants-Brandt's and the smaller Pelagic Cormorants. After a time here we passed along near Pillar Point (which I found out later is a hot spot for birds) and settled on a nameless diner overlooking Half Moon Bay. While enjoying our lunch, we had the pleasure of watching Brown Pelicans diving for fish. Just as they would make their dive and secure their catch, a Heermann's Gull would invariably attempt to snatch a bit of lunch for itself as well.

Next day, we were up bright and early as we had wished to visit the redwoods at Muir Woods National Monument before the crowds as recommended by our AAA guidebook. We worked our way north through the city of San Francisco and across the brightly painted Golden Gate Bridge. After a brief stop to view the Bay from Vista Point, we continued on to Muir Woods traversing these coastal hills up and down on the switchback road without any guardrails. At Muir Woods, we had little problem parking at this early hour. We paid our admittance fees and entered into the redwood forest without any forethought of birds. We allowed some noisy human visitors to go ahead as we were here just to enjoy the awesome magnificence of these trees and the serenity of the stillness afforded within the shade of these ancient giants. However, we had not gone very far along when to our surprise and our enjoyment there was the bright blue flash of a Belted Kingfisher as it lighted on a branch above the babbling Redwood Creek that flows through the parkland. Frightened by a sudden motion and noise, however, he quickly flew off again. His presence was totally unexpected, so now I was filled with anticipation as to what other birds we might find. We continued until we reached a fork in the pathway. We walked to the short bridge that spans the creek, to see if we could see the kingfisher perched farther upstream. He was not visible, but we rested on the bridge rail enjoying the quietude of the forest. As we did so, other birds began to appear, one being a Swainson's Thrush that walked upon the rocks and underbrush along the stream. Some unidentified warblers flew quickly past us and hid in the shrubby understory. They never emerged so that they might be identified. Yet, as we continued along the paths, I suggested that my wife snap a picture of me next to a fallen redwood that had been cut to allow people to pass. Its girth was the measure of my height -- at least six feet. But, as I readied my pose, my wife alerted me to a bright little yellow bird flitting about in the small shrubs in the understory. We quickly took pictures of this warbler that was not in the least afraid of us. Later, back at the visitor's center we identified it as a Wilson's Warbler. As we walked deeper into the Cathedral Grove of this redwood forest, we expected not to see any more birds. Yet, near a rushing tributary stream, we came upon a little black wren-like bird flitting about on the forest floor. Totally oblivious to our presence, he continued foraging and then went down below the stream's bank out of our sight. His behavior down there was unobserved by us. However, farther along, people who were sitting on the bridge over the stream became quite animated by his behavior. At the time, I could not identify it, and gave little thought as to what it was. Later, we asked a National Park ranger, who suggested that it might have been a Winter Wren. My gut feeling is that we had seen an American Dipper.

We had reached a turning spot in the forest trail, where we went up a small hill and then looped back toward the Park's entrance. This upland trail placed us about midway up some of these redwood giants and from this vantage we looked down on the other visitors far below. As we passed among the ferns and sometimes between two tall giants, we spotted an American Robin that was totally unexpected here in these deep woods. We wended our way back to the visitor's center where several Steller's Jays were flying about in the nearby pines. Some of these colorful birds with their black crests seem to be posing for pictures. They were all quite tame.

We left the park and the increasing onrush of humanity, to explore some more of Marin County. Not knowing our relative distances in this area, we did not go farther north up to Point Reyes that also is a birding hotspot worth visiting. However, we sought out the nearby Muir Beach that on this day happened to be hosting an art school's visit as the artists painted the picturesque combination of the dunes, the cliffs and the sea. Here we saw many swallows -- Bank Swallows and Rough-winged Swallows. Also, we enjoyed the antics again of the diving Brown Pelicans and their pesky Heermann's Gull com-panions. Here some more Brandt's and Pelagic Cormorants were resting on the rocks.

We left Muir Beach and worked our way back up the winding roads to have lunch in Sausalito. Here parking is at a premium and we parked some distance from the central area on the waterfront. The stroll along the bay and window shopping in the many boutiques was most enjoyable. Down on the waterfront we saw Western Gulls and Herring Gulls seeking handouts and resting on the pilings. The ubiquitous Brewer's Blackbirds and Rock Doves were seemingly everywhere here in Sausalito.

After our brief sojourn in Marin county we recrossed the Golden Gate Bridge and traveled along the coastal road of the San Francisco peninsula for a time. We stopped at the famous Cliff House overlooking the Seal Rocks. These are Seal Rocks in name only as most of the seals and sea lions now find respite on the floats provided at Pier 39 along San Francisco's waterfront. However, we did see again some cormorants.
On our third day in San Francisco Bay area, we were going to visit the Napa Valley wineries, but being a Friday, we were advised by a friendly postal clerk to do otherwise as traffic would be horrendous. A trip that would normally take an hour and half could easily stretch to three hours. Instead, we visited the small tasting room of Windsor Vineyards in Tiburon (Spanish for shark) in Marin County. The sommelier was friendly and very animated. It seemed he was willing to let us drink the wine cellars dry, had we encouraged it. However, ironically, the case of select wines we purchased in Tiburon to have sent to our home, came not from the vineyards in California, but had been shipped from just over the Hudson River in Marlboro, Ulster county, New York. C'est le vin! Salut!

Returning from Tiburon in Marin County to our San Mateo hotel, we stopped again at the Golden Gate Bridge, but this time up on the higher Marin Highlands over-looking even the bridge towers. Here, high on a windy hill, we enjoyed watching the passing vehicular traffic on the bridge and the ship traffic coursing through the golden strait. Gulls of course were the birds mostly frequently observed at this vantage point. Sadly, no California Condors were evident. They were last recorded to nest in this area in 1971.

On the next day, the 14th of July, after a five-hour flight across the Pacific Ocean, we arrived on the beautiful island of Maui landing at the Kahului Airport. We were immediately whisked away by cruise line shuttle to the SS Independence docked at Kahului harbor. After getting ourselves oriented with the ship we were able to go ashore for an adventure in Hawaiian mall shopping. Here at the Queen Kahuumanu Mall I first observed the presence of the sprite and very tame Zebra Dove. These birds are on all the major Hawaiian Islands.

We returned to our ship for the evening meal and to ready ourselves for the early morning wake-up of 3AM so we could take the minibus to the top of Haleakala, "House of the Sun" in Hawaiian, to see the sunrise at 5:46AM. As the minibus wended its way in the dark up the mountainside we saw no birds, just other headlights as other sun-worshipers were working their way up to the top of the 10,000+ foot mountain. The temperatures at this altitude were in the low 40s if not lower and we stamped our feet quite frequently as we attempted to warm ourselves waiting for the sun's arrival over the clouds below. Right on schedule, the dawn gradually furnished us with light until a glorious shimmering orb broke through the clouds with crepusculent rays emanating from its center. Everyone was in awe. The early rising, the long winding journey, the chill morning air were all worth this one breathless moment to see a very natural occurrence, but it is all the more awesome as you see it here in a beautiful natural setting above the clouds. Before our descent we were given some time to view the displays in the visitor's center and to see the endangered endemic flower for this place, the Silversword plant which only blooms once in every fifty years and then it dies. Later, as we descended the mountain we had hoped to see the native bird and official state bird which lives on this volcanic peak, the Nene (Hawaiian Goose). However, they are more reclusive than I thought. Lower down the mountain we did see some Cattle Egrets feeding along with cattle grazing on the Haleakala Ranch. After passing the digs of Tom Selleck at his White Horse Ranch, we arrived at the Protea Garden. Here we made a rest and refreshment stop. While sitting in the garden with our snack we were entertained by such common alien species as a flock of House Sparrows. Yet, one brave male bird actually ate from my wife's hand and this was pleasurable despite its so common status.

Just as we reboarded the minibus and I was losing all hope of ever seeing any wild Hawaiian birds, other than urban or domestic types, we observed a flock of Gray Francolins crossing an open field on the hillside above us. Our first two days of Hawaii had produced only four species. The SS Independence steamed away from Maui and we had the pleasure now of seeing the glowing sunset over the Island of Lanai, just as so many hours earlier we had seen it rise up on Haleakala. Our cruise ship worked its way through the various channels with ease and comfort. We arrived in Hilo on the big island of Hawaii the next morning.

At this port, our shore excursions included seeing several waterfalls. Some cataracts had over 80-foot drops. While walking to Akaka Falls on a trail that wended its way through lush tropical forests with giant bamboo and other tropical trees, we heard some birds high in the canopy, but never could get sight of these songsters. However, for my trying so hard to crane my neck and being less than vigilant in my steps, I fell and came away with scrapes, bruises and scars to show for my efforts instead. No birds were sighted in this beautiful paradise.

In the afternoon, we traveled up into the Hawaiian Volcanoes National Park to view Kiluaea volcanic crater and caldera. Here we walked on the lava, felt the steamy heat coming from a steam vent, viewed a cinder cone and passed through the Thurston Lava Tube. Near the latter area, there is lush tropical forest that certainly must have bird life, but our limited stay didn't afford us a sighting of any. Most of the colorful honeycreepers are birds of the higher canopy and thus are hidden from view.

Later, back aboard ship we enjoyed the colorful beauty of a distant rainbow on the horizon and then another stunning sunset before going to dinner. After dinner, we were regaled by the Goddess Pele's performances lighting up the night sky as she hurled forth the burning lava from one of Kiluaea's lava channels into the frothy sea. This could be seen from twenty miles away and became even grander as we came closer.

Wings Over Dutchess, April 2002

PART TWO

Our next port of call was Kailua-Kona on the northwest coast of the Big Island of Hawaii. Here our ship anchored off shore and we rode a launch into the city. From there our excursions took us to the Historical Society's living history museums at the village of Captain Cook. We toured the exhibits at the Greenwell's General Store and then to the old Ishiwara Coffee Plantation. At the latter place we were shown close-up all the steps in processing the rich tasting Kona coffee from its hand-picked harvesting to the milling and drying. Also, the kimono-dressed docents vividly portrayed the everyday home life of the Japanese coffee farmer and his family. It was a most interesting and informative tour. While walking about the plantation grounds, a common peafowl was also strolling about. I don't believe this was a domesticated bird as these birds are wild here in the islands.

Next we traveled to a more modern coffee operation in Holualoa, although the beans are still hand picked. On our way there we observed the strikingly colorful Kalij Pheasant with its red crest and gray body, crossing the road from one wooded area to another. Back in Kailua-Kona proper, we also observed three other non-native species, but still very colorful and life-listers for us. The birds, identified for us by our carriage tour guide, were Yellow-billed Cardinal, Java Sparrow, natives of Indonesia, and the bright yellow Saffron Finch. In addition to these birds, our guide also pointed out several Hawksbill Sea Turtles, natives to Hawaii, swimming in the crystal clear shallow waters near the unimposing Hawaiian Royal residence, the Hulihee Palace. His very alert eyes also provided us a view of another alien resident of the islands, the mongoose from south Asia darting about under some parked cars. These mammals were brought to the islands to rid the cane fields of rats. However, the mongoose is diurnal and the rats are nocturnal. Now, the islands continue to face two problems instead of one.

Our second day on the Big Island ended. The SS Independence weighed anchor and set its compass toward Oahu. That evening as we strolled the deck after dinner, we observed some other passengers and a crew member trying to comfort a seabird wrapped in a blanket on the deck. It apparently was sick as one passenger remarked it had regurgitated and was unable to fly. Although, these birds do need to be on water in order to takeoff. The knowledgeable crew member remarked that the bird is usually found farther north of our latitude. The bird appeared to be a juvenile Brown Booby. We left the bird and its caregivers. Next morning, when we tried to find the avian stowaway, it was not to be found. Its whereabouts was unknown.
As our ship steamed toward Honolulu, we watched as the sun slowly rose above Diamond Head and the more distant hills above this island metropolis. But, the most unforgettable sight that morning as we worked our way to the pier at the Aloha Tower, was to watch a Great Frigatebird (female) glide just above our heads. I was so in awe, although I held a camera, I took no photographs. She then gradually and gracefully climbed the thermals to an undetermined height where she soared with another frigatebird high above us. The bird's name in Hawaiian is "Iwa" which means thief for its tendency to harass other birds until they release their catch.

Our first day on Oahu brought us through the bustling city of Honolulu and then toward the north shore to Waimea Falls Park. Here at Waimea Falls Park, we were entertained by hula dancers and then by divers leaping off the rocks into the pool below the falls. Yet, for me the best entertainment was the avian life seen along the way. We caught a glimpse in a marsh of a common moorhen endemic to the islands, and then a White-rumped Shama or Shama thrush, native of Malaysia, that was feeding alongside the road. Later, we saw a captive specimen of the official state bird, the Nene goose. Still later, as we returned to the parking lot and walked beneath a large umbrella tree, we looked up to see a male common peafowl with its long, splendiferous tail, perched high above us. Again, these peafowl are wild birds not domestic fowl. We went on to enjoy all the shows and events at the Polynesian Cultural Center. Lots of bird feathers on the "royal" garments of the enactors, but no noteworthy birds. Traditionally, these feathers were plucked from the native endemic birds. Especially prized and important in the Hawaiian featherwork were the yellow thigh feathers of the O'o. The feathers were taken during molting and then the bird was released.

On our second day in Oahu, we spent our morning at Pearl Harbor to visit the USS Arizona Memorial. As we waited for our launch to visit the ship memorial proper, we toured the visitor's center and its bookstore. As our launch time approached, we sat near the theatre and boarding area where we were entertained by the many, very tame Zebra Doves and one Spotted Dove, which is much more wary of humans. Once on the Arizona memorial proper, one is quietly moved and filled with reverence to think of these victims of our
nation's first day of infamy.

Back in downtown Honolulu, we were given a drive-by tour of some of the more prominent tourist sites, including the main residence of the Hawaiian royalty, Iolani Palace; the King Kamehameha statue bedecked in its yellow feathered robe and headpiece; the modern State Capitol and Washington Place, the final home of Queen Liliuokalani, last Hawaiian queen and which is now the present Governor's residence. After this tour we were dropped at Hilo Hatties for a shopping spree. Even I, who hates to shop, enjoyed this fun store.

Later that day, our ship departed Honolulu with grand fanfare, including dockside entertainment of
ukelele players and hula dancers and the water-spray displays by the fireboats. The captain steered our course, passing Diamond Head once more and then directing our ship to the Garden Isle, Kauai. We saw the tiny fairy White Tern patrolling the blue Pacific waters on its return from feeding as we paralleled the Oahu coast. These birds are resident of Oahu, near Camp DeRussy and Waikiki.

Next morning we entered the harbor at Nawiliwili, Kauai. We boarded a minivan to tour the island. As the van passed through the streets of Nawiliwili, we noticed "little brown jobs" which were not sparrows, but Nutmeg Manikins and Chestnut Manikins feeding on grass seeds along the roadside. These birds are also known as ricebirds and can be very destructive to crops. I first observed these birds when I was stationed in the Philippines in the 1970s. These birds were plentiful there as well. Our ventures for the day included the spouting hole at Koloa and the Waimea Canyon. At the spouting hole, a rush of sea water comes up through an inactive volcanic lava tube to create a giant geyser-like display. It was here at the overlook that we noticed a Brazilian Cardinal or Red-crested Cardinal singing from his perch high in a tree.

Waimea Canyon, the Grand Canyon of the Pacific, as a geologic wonder is more green with vegetation than the Grand Canyon of the Colorado. It was here in Waimea Canyon we could see in the distance the White-tailed Tropicbirds moving up and down the canyons as this is where they nest. Also, closer at hand, near the canyon overlook we were blessed with a visit of Red Junglefowl. One would say these are just domestic chickens, however, these birds are wild. They are descendants of the earliest fowl brought centuries ago by the earliest Polynesians. One can tell by the coloration of the birds' feet. These birds with their distinctive red combs on both sexes were emerging from the nearby forest looking for ready handouts from the human visitors. There also might have been some stray domestic fowl from the diaspora created on the Hawaiian islands by Hurricane Iliki, a noteworthy tempest of recent years. On our final day of the cruise, the ship once again sailed into Kahului harbor on the island of Maui. Here we bade our farewells to our new found shipboard friends and then set out to rent a vehicle to tour the island while we stayed another three days in paradise. On our drive away from the ship we passed the nature preserve of Kanaha Pond, where we observed a lone Black-necked Stilt, an endangered endemic species, standing in the shallow waters. We didn't go right to our hotel, but instead navigated the formidable road to Hana. This 50-mile trip takes about 3 hours in each direction as the road is so windy and narrow at spots that one has to be ever cautious. One has no chance to be heavy on the gas pedal. Although, impatient with the visitor's slow pace, the local drivers would speed right on by. Blind curve ahead and solid yellow line notwithstanding. Along this beautiful coastal road wending its way through lush rain forests that are most probably replete with tropical birds high in the canopy, we observed few birds. However, we did enjoy the breathtaking views at each bend of this serpentine road.

Once we returned to central Maui, we worked our way down the west coast to Wailea and our resort hotel. This grand hotel, our home for the next three days, was situated in a parklike setting along the shore overlooking distant Kahoolawe and Molokini Islands. Although Molokini Island, a small rocky island, is a bird sanctuary, we did not venture out to it. We would walk the resort grounds to the pool and the sandy beach a short distance away. Along the way we observed at different times Northern Mockingbird, Common Myna, Gray Francolins and the most surprising observation occurred on a moonless night about 9:30PM. While we walked along the resort's shoreline paths in the cool night air, we saw Black-crowned Night-Herons on the rocky shore not more than twenty feet away searching for crustaceans. Generally, solitary feeders we did see several in close proximity to each other. Additionally, some mornings, we were graced with the presence of Java Sparrows singing in the upper reaches of the palm trees within arms length of our eighth-floor room balcony. These striking birds have a gray body, black tail and head with a conspicuous white cheek. Their bills and eye ring are bright pink.

From our base at Wailea we took jaunts up the northwest coast of Maui to the old port city of Lahaina. This charming old Hawaiian town is full of historical structures including the Old Lahaina courthouse; the Pioneer Inn; the old fort; and the old prison. A replica of the Carthaginian ship is a seaworthy sailing vessel that affords tourists a chance to ride the waves. The huge banyan tree, planted in the 1830s, in the courthouse square gives shady respite to townspeople and tourists alike. On our way to Lahaina we had passed Kealia Pond, another nature sanctuary, where we again saw the endangered black-necked stilt for a second time. Also, skirting the Maui hills we observed another of the beautiful white-tailed tropicbirds that we had observed earlier in the Waimea Canyon on the island of Kauai.

Although our trip was not specifically a birding trip, for me it was all the more worthwhile, for it afforded me many new birds to add to my life list. Birding serendipitously can be very effective when in Paradise. Or Paradise can be enhanced when birding serendipitously. Whatever way you look at it—it was truly Paradise.

Wings Over Dutchess, May 2002