Return
to South Georgia, Antarctica
by
Dewi Edwards
Updated
11/10/01 (Second Photo Added!)
After
a nightmare drive south from North Wales in torrential rain
and heavy traffic on the M6 motorway, we finally arrived at
RAF Brize Norton for our flight south. Fortunately the flight
took off on time and we arrived in Ascension Island eight and
a half hours later for a brief stop off for refueling. Two
unfamiliar birds were flying around the airfield, but these
will have to remain unidentified until I return home and have
access to a field guide for the islands.
Another seven and a half hours later we landed in the Falkland
Islands at Mount Pleasant Airport. After the usual wait for
baggage, immigration and customs, we boarded a bus for Port
Stanley. The drive into Stanley produced several Turkey Vultures,
scores of Upland Geese, Coscoroba Swan, Kelp and Brown-hooded
Gulls, and one Long-tailed Meadowlark.
Our hotel for the night was the 'Upland Goose', situated on
the harbour front. A quick glance through the window gave views
of Dolphin Gulls, Steamerducks and Northern Giant Petrels (Hall's
Giant Petrels), along with numerous Kelp Gulls. I decided to
walk along the harbour front and found Blackish and Magellanic
Oystercatchers, Blue-eyed and Rock Shags, Antarctic Skuas (South
Polar Skuas), American Sheathbills (Snowy Sheathbills) and
Kelp Geese, along with small flocks of the ubiquitous House
Sparrow!
The following morning found me wandering around Stanley before
breakfast looking for birds. All the ones seen in the harbour
the previous day were noted along with Crested Caracara and
Falkland Island Thrush (Austral Thrush). After breakfast we
loaded up our gear for the bus ride to the ship and boarded
the "Sigma" (a fisheries patrol vessel) and left
harbour at 12:30pm.
From the deck of the ship I was able to watch for birds as
we sailed out through the narrows and into open water. A flock
of 15 Kelp and 7 Dolphin Gulls followed us out and they were
joined by Northern Giant Petrels and Cape Petrels. Several
Magellanic Penguins were spotted on the beach while South American
Terns fished the shallows. A Commerson's Dolphin made a brief
appearance and Sooty Shearwaters became more numerous as we
headed out to sea.
Once out in open water, we were joined by the first of many
Black-browed Albatrosses. It was great to be reacquainted with
this species after a gap of over thirteen years. This one was
an adult in pristine condition which followed the ship for
most of the afternoon. Other species appeared and before long
I had added Silver-grey Fulmars (Southern Fulmars), Thin-billed
Prions (Slender-billed Prions), Atlantic Petrels, White-chinned
Petrels, Grey Petrels and a single Wilson's Storm-Petrel to
my tally for the day. Most of these species were still with
us the following day when the first Wandering Albatross showed.
Within a couple of hours there were several following the ship,
and a closer inspection revealed that two of the birds were
actually Royal Albatrosses. Recent taxonomy has split the large
albatross group into several species (depending on which authority
you read), with birds that I know as Wandering Albatross being
reclassified as Snowy Albatross, these having longer bills
than the 'Wandering' Albatross and also being whiter overall
in the adult stage. If you are confused at this point, imagine
how I feel! So for the time being I will stay with the name
of Wandering Albatross in my notes until I have further details!
Smaller seabirds were also evident with Thick-billed Prion,
Blue Petrel, Kerguelen Petrel, Black-bellied and White-bellied
Storm-Petrels, Macaroni Penguins and a Sooty Albatross, far
to the south of its normal range, being seen throughout the
day.
Our third day at sea produced Grey-headed Albatross and Soft-plumaged
Petrel as new species for the trip, but the hoped for sightings
of whales failed to materialise, probably due to the season
being too early for most species, which tend to migrate to
the southern oceans a little later in the year.
On the final day of our voyage, we woke to glorious sunshine
and ice on deck. Several birds had landed on the ship overnight
and were huddled under various areas around the ship. Most
were common diving petrels with a single Blue Petrel and a
Black-bellied Storm-Petrel amongst them. All birds were caught
and released unharmed apart from one unfortunate individual
which was found dead after colliding with the ship's searchlight
during the night. Further watches from the deck during the
morning brought Chinstrap Penguins, Grey-backed Storm-Petrel,
Antarctic and Fairy Prions, and a single Antarctic Petrel.
Before long we sighted the Willis islands off the Northeasternmost
part of South Georgia and were soon sailing past the north
cliffs of Bird Island, stirring memories of old which brought
out a stream of emotions within me and a sudden realisation
that I was in the one place where I felt I truly belonged.
As
we sailed along the northern coast of South Georgia itself,
the wildlife also changed subtly with fur seals 'porpoising'
out of the water, several elephant seals disturbed by our passing
and King, Gentoo, Macaroni and Chinstrap Penguins surfacing
in small groups to watch our progress. Light mantled Sooty
Albatrosses became more numerous, along with Grey-headed and
Black-browed, while Wandering Albatrosses still followed the
ship. Two Southern Giant Petrels (Antarctic Giant Petrels)
were sighted amongst the numerous northern types, their apple
green bill tips giving their identification away. As we turned
to enter Cumberland Bay, several Antarctic Terns were fishing
inshore with a backdrop of spectacular, snow clad peaks rising
to over 9,000 feet at the summit of Mount Paget, impressively
massive glaciers and, on a small isthmus of land jutting out
into the bay, our home for the next four months, King Edward
Point.
NEXT MONTH: Rarity hunting, breeding birds and violence on
the beaches!
Wings
Over Dutchess, November
2001
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